BADWATER 135 ULTRA DEATH VALLEY, USA 28TH JULY 2015

Feeling the 110 deg F heat already ! 

This would be my second foray to this alluring place and it’s mystical marathon. I had great memories of having run it 5 years prior in 2010 and was very enthusiastic about returning to this magical land, especially having a well informed and well connected local guide as Rachid was the font of all knowledge.There were several elite Kenyan and Ethiopian athletes also staying at the Hotel El Andalous which was inspirational. I even remember having to help one of the Kenyans to find his room, and chortled to myself whilst carrying his suitcase as it was almost bigger than him! It was whilst I was staying at this hotel that I met some real characters post-race at the hotel pool. I met a fellow Zimbabwean named Gary Mundell, who had come out to do the marathon with some friends. I was born and raised in Zimbabwe so we struck up an instant rapport which included conversations about numerous legendary ultras. He asked me whether I’d run the Western States, Leadville, and Wasatch – the answer to this was “yes.” I told him I’d done all of these awesome 100’s and had even managed to get the much sought after Silver Buckle (Sub 24hrs) for the WSER. He then asked if I’d done Badwater……I hesitated and quite loudly said “No”! He then asked if I’d ever considered this. “No, not really,” I replied. He said “Well here’s the deal if you ever get in you have my word here and now that I will come and crew you.” I embedded that thought somewhere deep in the recesses of my mind, and the seed was well and truly sown now. 

On the flight home from Marrakesh I earnestly started thinking about the feasibility of doing Badwater, but the very thought of it brought me out in a cold sweat, as I’d seen quite a bit of footage of it on YouTube and read numerous accounts of the race by legends such as Scott Jurek and Dean Karnazes, but I could never fathom how or why anyone would honestly want to subject themselves to hours of sheer purgatory by running along a blazing highway that stretched through the middle of the hottest place on earth Stovepipe Wells (on route) where a temperature was 56.7 deg C in 1913.

Some like it hot… !

Thoughts of Badwater were banished for a while, until the dying flames were rekindled. My wife Melanie asked me whether I’d like to go and hear a talk hosted by Mark Hines, the renowned ultra runner who had taken on several cold / hot weather races like the Yukon Arctic Ultra and 6633 as well as the epic MDS. Anyway this talk really had me transfixed as his renditions about the trials and tribulations of running these epic races and the sense of karma he seemed to purvey left me thinking again about Badwater. This time I covertly started watching numerous YouTube feeds about the Badwater runners. Reading more about this epic race really made me realise just how tenacious the human spirit could be. It was just something I had to prove to myself and my restless spirit. The cravings had started in earnest now and I knew then that I had to get my fix. I’ve always had an addictive personality, and running ultras has just given me such a sense of inner peace. To me it’s the true test of character to put oneself through hell and back and just keep going no matter what, so I made up my mind then that I was definitely doing this race.

GWR “London Marathon 2013” 3.25hrs, 4mm wetsuit 

I was about to find out that the going was just about to get tough, but I was massively determined to ‘slay the beast,’ and from that moment of clarity I decided I was going to get across the line and achieve what I never thought was possible. It was a moment of sheer exhilaration and blind panic all rolled into one. So….. one fine sunny day I decide to bite the bullet, and I log on to my PC and type in the Badwater web address. Right, what do I do to enter this? Having read about all the specifics, I go to the BW application form and painstakingly cobble together my running history, which fortunately for me also included my Centurion Gland Slam 2014 win, having also broken the aggregated Slam record by over 13hrs. I plough on, completing details of the various 100’s that I’d done within the last 5 years and finally complete my background history. I chuckle out loud as I complete the online entry and mention that I held the Guinness World Record for the fastest marathon in a wetsuit (London Marathon 2013) of 3hrs 25mins wondering what Chris Kostman (Race Director) would think about this. I’m at least quietly confident that he’ll be having a chortle when he gets to that bit of my application and hopefully feels that if I am crazy enough to attempt such records, I’ll be man enough to complete Badwater! 

About 2 hrs later the covert application is done, and now all I could do was to sit back and wait patiently.Like a coiled rattlesnake I wait for what seems like ages and questions formulate in my mind as to whether to tell Mel or to keep it secret. I decide finally that discretion is the better part of valour so I keep this to myself and one or two close friends, after all if I don’t get in this isn’t going to be an issue. The main problem is that we had already booked a trip to do the Davos K78 in Switzerland over the same time period. I’d proposed to Mel at Jacobshorn in 2010 the day before the Davos K42 (whilst dressed in a Kilt), having changed in a loo at the top of the mountain, so we had decided that we’d go back after establishing that it was the 30th anniversary to do the K78 this time, and to celebrate our engagement.I’d originally done Davos in 2005 and I told Mel how wonderful a course it was so we’d booked our flights and accommodation.                                

I didn’t think that I would definitely get a place at Badwater anyway, as the vetting process is very stringent and there are literally only about 100 runners that are pre-selected from over 1000 applications worldwide. However thoughts of getting in really started to take a hold and I can remember feeling very nervous on a number of occasions. I really didn’t want to upset the apple cart by telling Mel I’d entered this too, so I kept my little secret to myself.One fine morning I log on to check my emails and lo and behold there is one in the inbox from Badwater. I nervously wondered if I should open it or wait until later as this is “the email”! With my heart pounding in my chest I open the email, and it’s from Chris Kostman. It says “Congratulations, you have been selected to run the Badwater 135 ultra” along with the disclaimer saying that it is the toughest footrace on the planet! “Oh S**T,” I think to myself, “What I do now?” I feel apprehensive as I begin to wonder whether running Badwater will be easier than telling my wife that I had entered …. and that I’d actually be representing GB along with the legend Jack Denness MBE.

The conversation went something like this, “Mel we have to talk about something that I’ve been meaning to tell you for a while” ….. she’s probably thinking right what has the B ** T **D been up to now ?!!! Anyway, I finally say after some stuttering and stammering “I have entered Badwater and have got a place”; a double whammy. Mel is speechless for some time until finally she blurts out “What about Davos? We said we were going to do this together!”Right, I’m really in the dog box now, but the decision has been made. I’ve got the acceptance and there is just no turning back now so I try and justify my actions by saying “Well you took me to that Mark Hines talk,” but that doesn’t wash with Mel. Yikes ..I’m in trouble with my Scottish wife now ! 

Preparations for Badwater started virtually straight away, despite now having to hide in the shadows when I saw my wife looming, and trying hard not to broach this sensitive subject. The shopping on Ebay and Amazon knew no bounds, I started buying all sorts of weird apparel like boxing sweat suits due to the fact that I couldn’t get into my wetsuit after an accident at the “Eco Trail de Paris 80km” where I suffered a dislocated shoulder having tripped on a tree root at the 55 km mark. This incident resulted in me being admitted to Versailles Hospital overnight so they could put my shoulder back into socket, the DNF for me being far worse than this injury. So buying the sweat suit seemed like a good plan at the time. My apparel also included Yoga pants (white of course) that were miles too long for me and ones I looked ridiculous in, a white Salomon cap, white arm coolers that I planned to put ice under, ice necklaces, Oakley sunglasses, technical white long sleeved tops, Drymax socks, 3 tubs of zinc cream, lip ice, Nathan high viz florescent vests, flashing lights and a whole range of other mandatory items.

The quizzing started in earnest and I tried to soak up as much information as I could from various friends I knew that had run it, including James Elson, James Adams, Mimi Anderson, Grant Maughan, Lisa Smith-Batchen, Ed Ettinghausen (the Jester) and I even got the phone number of the legendary Jack Denness MBE, aka (Death Valley Jack) he gave me some sound advice. He’s a real character as you would expect and really down to earth despite also running Badwater 14 times. He ran Badwater when he was 75 years old completing the race in 2010 in a time of 59hrs 13mins 02secs and he still holds the record for the oldest finisher.He has been inducted into the Badwater hall of fame, it was an inspiration to have met him. 

Dave & Jack Denness MBE (Death Valley Jack) his 15th Badwater

Forearmed with all these pearls of wisdom, I set about heat training. There is a mixed response to this in general, Jack said he didn’t really do it, but a number of very successful Badwater runners really swore by it and so I decided that it had to be worth the salt (pun intended.) I went about joining the local gym, LA fitness, on a 3 month contract to factor in my sauna-induced heat training. I even trawled Ebay and decided to buy an industrial oven thermometer to accurately measure the temperature in the sauna, as the thermometer there was inaccurate. My sauna based conversations with various Gym members left them with furrowed brows when I explained just why I was spending such long time periods in the sauna. 

The sauna sessions started in earnest when I got back from Comrades in June, as I had established that the optimum heat training time was normally about 5-6 weeks before getting to Death Valley. This sauna training was a nightmare though, and looking back I can honestly say I found it tougher sitting in saunas for ages than I actually found the heat in Death Valley during the race. I persevered though, and also decided to run to the gym in the thickest puffa jacket I could find, with a baselayer on underneath and a wool lined cap to trap the heat in. The looks from motorists and walkers were priceless, especially as it was hot anyway. It’s purgatory trying to run even an 8 min mile dressed in this type of garb on a hot day, but I would normally run to the gym twice a week to strengthen my resolve, armed with the knowledge that it’s a case of ‘train hard, run easy’. At least that’s what I kept telling myself. The jacket was drenched in sweat in no time just spent covering the 4 miles to the gym, and I normally filled up 4x500ml bottles with water when I got there then headed for a sauna session at 80-90 deg C.

Normally it would only take about 15 mins for me to feel wiped out, and the 15 mins sand timer seemed to take an eternity to empty. I would usually do 2 x15 mins sessions. The second one was hell though, and by then my heart rate was going through the roof. Running home with the puffa jacket on after this wasn’t fun either, and I could hardly get any pace going. As the weeks progressed I it got a little easier, but it never stopped me hating every session.The other way I heat trained was to drive around with the car heater on full blast. The temperature in the car was about 40 C (104 deg F) and by the time I’d done a mere 20 min drive I was sweating buckets. On one heat training session I did an 18 mile run (when I could finally get my shoulder into my wetsuit) just to deliver a Comrades t-shirt to a friend that he’d ordered from me prior to the race.He wasn’t at home at the time, so I knocked on his front door and his Swedish wife came to answer it. She seemed bewildered by the lunatic standing there in the wetsuit, who had by now left a large pool of sweat on their front porch. She scurried off and brought me a pint of water in a beer glass, probably feeling sorry for me, and I proceeded to glug it down in one. After a quick chat and exchange of the t-shirt, which was fortunately wrapped up in a plastic bag I bid her farewell and off I trotted wondering whether she had thought I needed some help! The next day I ran the Richmond Park Marathon in 3hrs 10mins and managed 5th place, but I felt really knackered after this.

Race day was looming fast now and my resolve was at an all time high. I’d carefully selected my final crew members and they included Gary Mundell (Zimbabwean), Cinder Wolff (Physio from Las Vegas and my Crew Chief), Frank Sizemore (ultra runner from Texas), Ashley Heclo (Physio & ultra runner from Texas). Cinder set up a Badwater crewing page on Facebook, which was an invaluable tool for ongoing communication across the big pond. Cinder and Frank had both crewed before at Badwater, Cinder for the legendary Marshall Ulrich too, so their collective experience was a valuable asset. The vehicle that Cinder already used as a physio was very useful too as our crew vehicle, as were the ice buckets and sprayer, though the latter was hardly used as it didn’t seem to work too well.

I’d booked flights for myself and Gary (he was scheduled to join me a couple of days later) in the Stratosphere Hotel in downtown Las Vegas. This was also where we’d all agreed to rendezvous prior to travelling out together to Furnace Creek. I had booked accommodation for 3 days prior to the Badwater race just so that we all had the opportunity to get to know each other well and get psychologically and physically sharpened up for the big race. We did some last minute heat training acclimatisation in Furnace Creek, which entailed group training runs together, this was a lot of fun.

On the day I was due to fly out to Las Vegas I got up pretty early. I’m not really the best on long haul flights as I can’t sit still for more than 2 mins, so I decided in my infinite wisdom that I would to run to the LA Fitness and cram in one more heat session before being cooped up all day on a plane. I legged it down to the gym, minus the puffa jacket, for a nice 4 mile clip, had my 15 mins sauna session then ran back home to shower and get my skates on. I had to make a detour to the bank to do some last minute bits (not to be recommended on the morning of a flight) and by the time I got to the bus rank outside the local post office for the X26 from Sutton to Heathrow I’d missed my bus…bugger! I thought that I’d just make it by getting the next bus, but this was delayed, so I was really up against it now. Having arrived at Hatton Cross I jumped off the bus, hailed a taxi and asked him to adopt a kamikaze piece of driving. The taxi driver did his best, and I raced through to T2 and the United Airlines desk only to be told I was too late to check in. Oh S**T, I’d just missed my flight, and despite pleading fervently with the United Airlines staff there was nothing that could be done as they had already checked in all baggage. Damn it, what a numpty. This was not the best way to prepare for Badwater. I called Mel at work to tell her what had happened, and there was just stunned silence on the line. 

I waited around to see if I could catch a later flight, which I couldn’t, so I had to go home again, although I’d managed to book another early am flight the following day to LV. I finally boarded my flight the next day, but it was delayed as the United maintenance engineers had discovered a fuel leak. They were summoned to repair this, and after about 1 hr we were all finally given the all clear to taxi and take off …whew! What a relief. I’d already worked out, however, that I would definitely miss my onward connection from Chicago due to this technical hitch. On arrival at Chicago O’Hare I was waitlisted on a late evening fight to LV and I had about 5 hrs to kill, so I got a train to downtown Chicago and spent a few hours discovering the sights then racing back to get my flight, which fortunately was on time. So, without any further mishaps I got to LV after an epic journey feeling worn out to say the least. I jumped into a taxi and headed to the Stratosphere Hotel, dumped my suitcases and headed straight to the 107th floor lounge bar in the hotel overlooking the Vegas Strip. I then proceeded to glug down several large glasses of white wine which was the most relaxing part of what had been a 48 hour slog, longer than the race would be.

St.Mary’s University Heat training under the UV lamps at 111.2 deg F

Vegas in July was basking in sunshine. It was summer, so my morning run the next day gave me an idea of just how hot it was likely to be in Death Valley. I ran to Las Vegas Central Station in downtown Vegas on the former strip to collect my hire car. The temperature on the way back had already reached 118 deg F but it was a dry, hot heat and the breeze, or what little there was of it, was really fetid too. I didn’t actually find it that hard running in the Vegas heat as long as I didn’t ramp up the pace too much. I had also found this to be the case at St Mary’s University in their heat chamber under the UV lamps at about 44 C (111.2 deg F), which I was told the hottest conditions they could emulate. I was closely monitored by my good friend Andrew Nippard, who was just completing his Masters Degree in Sports Nutrition. He’d put together a dietary food log for me based on a comprehensive food list that I’d provided him with, although in practice I’d never really stuck to this due the effects of the heat, which meant eating too many solids was pretty difficult. The heat training was done in 10 min intervals and I was tested for my lactate levels, which just meant pricking my ear lobe and getting blood samples. I found this all very fascinating, especially when I decided to attempt a sub 7 min mile after already having run for 50 mins. The result of my folly was that my lactate level increased three-fold. In short the conclusion was that I had to regulate my overall energy expenditure and not push the pace too hard. Of course in reality when the adrenalin is pulsating through ones veins and you’re in race mode during those early miles this is much easier said than done.

Gary Mundell arrived the day after me as I’d lost a day getting there, so we arranged to rendezvous in the by now familiar Stratosphere lounge bar and chatted excitedly over a few drinks whilst admiring the exhilarating view of the Strip by night. We then digested the finer details about race strategy. He’d also religiously been sauna training (equally important for the crew) due to the extended time that would be spent by them travelling around in the back of the van, which would not always be air conditioned. He said that all the with sauna training he’d lost 1.5 stone and he certainly looked much thinner then when we’d last met in Marrakesh. 

Red Rock “rock the house” 

We mutually decided that it would be great to use my hire car do a trip  to Red Rock Canyon the following day, which was only about a 1hr drive from LV. I drove there with the windows closed to maximise our heat training further. The Red Rock Canyon is a wonderful National Park, which is a 14 mile circuit on the road. We spent quite a while looking around the interesting Visitors Centre, then continued our drive through the park. Having decided that I’d have to get out and do a run, Gary took the wheel and drove behind me whilst I did about 6 mile run through the Canyon. The afternoon temperature by now had ramped up to about 112 deg F, the box canyon scenery was just stunning and I was just in my element as I paced about 7.5 mins per mile in that heat feeling great. This really gave me some essential confidence, so it was a worthwhile trip, and gave me my first real taste of the desert conditions that were similar to those I would experience in Death Valley National Park. The park occupies an area between the arid Great Basin and Mojave deserts which is around 5270 sq miles.

The eventual plan to unite and familiarise all the crew was proposed by Cinder. She had kindly invited all of us to her house for a BBQ on Friday night, before we would all set off to Death Valley the next day. Frank couldn’t make it to the meal, but the rest of us all had a good catch up and it was another memorable evening amongst like minded ultra runners. Needless to say, the excitement was really infectious and it was with great relief that I realised I had such a good experienced crew. It was suggested in the race briefing that at least one of the crew should really have a medical background and ideally have crewed at a previous BW event, I had knowledge base on both counts.

The plan the following day was that Cinder would pick us all up at our respective hotels and we’d then drive to the local Costco to do some grocery shopping, buy ice and pack the van. I had previously put an extensive list together that I’d emailed over to Cinder, and we assiduously went in search of all the items to make up a ‘smorgasbord’ of different food. I figured out that I’d probably get very bored trying to eat the same type of food for 30+ hours, hence the variety. With the shopping trip done we had a big job to pack everything in the van, as we literally had 3 trolleys full of the most weird and wonderful food, including grapes, watermelon, blueberries, dates,bananas, Chia smoothie pouches, Twinkies (yes I confess to liking these), hummus, marmite, peanut butter, jelly, cheese, wraps, various electrolyte drinks and powders etc, the list was infinite! We finally got on the road after much packing and repacking, with Frank, Ashley and Gary sitting almost on top of each other with their legs outstretched over the top of the huge assortment of ice boxes and food stashes, whilst I sat in the front with Cinder doing all the driving.

Driving out of LV and finally getting to the Death Valley National Park, which east of the Sierra Nevada mountains is the largest National Park in the USA, was a stark reminder of just how arid and unrelenting this inhospitable desert environment could be, and it overshadowed me like a cloak. The initial chitter chatter became hushed on occasion as we each mulled over our private thoughts and admired the vast expanses of desolate scenery surrounding us. The Death Valley road cuts through the park and is surrounded on each side by the foreboding canyon granite walls in this box canyon, making you feel somewhat trapped.The sheer emptiness of the scrubland and heat radiating from the road, which created a mirage ahead, seemed to put me in a transcendental state of mind.

Death Valley National Park with crew from left Frank, Dave, Cinder, Ashley & Gary  

After a long and very bumpy drive, as the roads are quite uneven and potholed on stretches, we unanimously decided to do a small detour recce from another nearby hotel called the Furnace Inn (which would be where the race registration would take place) to the Badwater Basin, which was a totally surreal place and was also the race start. We piled out of the van and the dry heat was stifling beyond comprehension. It registered 115 deg F, and was literally like opening the oven door and getting that initial blast of heat. The Badwater basin contains a pool of non-potable water which is laden with salt the surrounding area is just covered in the stuff. You walk out on a salt flat to get to the basin itself and when you look up all you can see are towering cliffs. There is a small sign high up on the surrounding granite walls embedded into the rock face which depicts where the original sea level used to be, exactly 282 ft up. The Badwater basin is renown as being the lowest and hottest place in Northern America.

My excitement was mounting but so was my anxiety. It was just so amazing to be standing on the spot that I had read about and seen when watching the start of Badwater on YouTube feeds, but there was no denying that I was about as nervous as I imagined a gladiator who had just been flung into a ring of lions would be! After taking lots of snapshots and mooching around taking in this jaw dropping scenery, we finally jumped back into the car and drove back down the course for the 18 miles to our hotel for our stay in ‘Furnace Creek.’ Unbeknown to me, it was originally an old borax mining community, so there were remnants of all the disused mining works and old wagons that were originally pulled by teams of oxen lying around. It was a fascinating place, and did I mention that it was stiflingly hot? After check in we made our way to our respective rooms, which were lovely and cool due to the air conditioning working around the clock. Gary and I were sharing a room and between us we decided that it would be better to turn the noisy aircon off. This would also enable us to heat acclimatise, but it was so hot that we instantly felt tired and lethargic.

Frank, Ashley and I decided that we’d all go for a morning run the next day before breakfast. It was so brilliant having a group of like minded ultra runners to share the experience of this awesome but foreboding place with as we struck out at a nice clip on that ‘road to nowhere’ the next morning. We planned to do about 7 miles down the long winding road from Furnace Creek, then back up it on the way back. I think I must have got carried away as we started out together but on the way back I’d dropped Frank and Ashley in my excitement; my thoughts were far removed from my surroundings and I was in a world of my own.I slowed down we reunited and jogged the last mile back together.

The days leading up to the race were generally spent chilling out, with the odd run thrown in to ease the nerves and guilt complex of being sedentary (at least in my case.) I felt it necessary to run a few miles in the morning before the sun was up, although it was still normally 100 deg F then, and then again later in the afternoon when it was really hot just to mimic the conditions and gradually prepare my mind and body for what was to come. One of the highlights in the lead up to the race day was at registration, which as mentioned earlier was hosted at the Furnace Inn hotel. Our whole crew joined me, we had to demonstrate that we had all the mandatory crew kit items which included 2 flashing lights per crew member (for front  and back of the race bib) and the bespoke Badwater high viz long sleeved top that every crew had to wear at all times. They turned out to be very hot. As the runner I too had to have the mandatory high viz vest (I bought a Nathan vest in the UK), which had to be worn from the hours of 6pm until it got light again. This meant that I had to wear it when the race started, as I had been allocated an 11pm starting wave with the elite field which included past winners, it was a privilege and honour to be amongst these ultra legends.

David Ross Badwater Runner 95 (Team GB) 

The characters that make Badwater such a special race were all there, and I got to meet people who I had read about and seen on various Badwater documentaries; they were some of the most inspirational runners and ‘off the wall’ characters that I’d ever met in one gathering. The legends included Marshall Ulrich, who was doing his 20th Badwater and had previously done a 586 mile quadruple BW unsupported pulling a sled containing his supplies that weighed more than 200 lbs. He’d also won the Badwater race an unprecedented  4 times and he still holds the record to the summit of Mt.Whitney.I’d literally just finished reading all about this great man in his book titled ‘Running on Empty’, which is also about his record breaking race across America, so meeting the man in person was a very humbling experience for me. Pam Reed, past winner of Badwater, was also running this year’s race, and her book ‘The Long Run’ was really captivating. She too had won Badwater in 2002, setting the course record and being the first woman to ever do so. She won the race overall again the following year too. Jack Denness MBE, aiming to run his 15th Badwater, was there too (the oldest finisher at 75 in 2005) and we had a great chat. Also there was Ed Ettinghausen (Jester) who always runs 100s and ultras in his full Jesters outfit. He is the Guinness World Record holder for the highest number of 100s run in a year – he did an astounding 40x100s in 2014 to surpass Liz Bauers record of 36, set in 2012. When I asked Ed how he planned to keep cool with that Jester’s hat, long sleeved top and leggings on he just said that he puts ice under his Jesters hat. He also puts ice on the main wrist arteries and corroded artery on his neck, using an ice necklace. I’d planned to do this too, as it worked well for me when I did the Western States 100 (2013) during the second hottest recorded running of the event.

Marshall, Dave & Ed (the Jester) Badwater 2015 Registration 

The Race Director Chris Kostman was greeting the runners and I shook his hand and thanked him for giving me one of the coveted places for this legendary race which was comprised of international runners from 24 represented countries and American runners from 22  states. I told Chris that I intended to fulfil my hopes and dreams and that I would cross that finishing line! My mindset was such that nothing short of a medical emergency would thwart my efforts. I was handed by my race bib and got my picture taken in the Usain Bolt pose much to the amusement of the Badwater race photographer. Fortunately I did realise that I wasn’t just doing a 100 meter sprint, more like a 100+ mile slog that would test my physical and mental resolve to the very limits and beyond.  

The following day, Cinder (as crew chief) and myself attended the mandatory rules briefing, which lasted about 2 hours. As Badwater wasn’t given a permit in 2013 we were given a very thorough run down of the rules and regulations in no uncertain terms. It was evident based on what Chris Kostman was saying that we would all be under the spotlight at this year’s Badwater, and that on this run more than ever before the focus would be on runners adhering stringently to all the rules and regulations. Breaches by either crew or runner could result in the runner being DQ’d, which terrified me. Rules that were almost unheard of on standard 100s were to be maintained, and the National Park Service (NPS) would analyse all aspects of the race thoroughly with the eventual outcome determining the future of Badwater. Rules like runners having to run on the RHS of the road at all times (facing oncoming traffic) were mandatory, and the only permitted exception for crossing a road was to gain access to one’s crew vehicle. 

Pacers were also required to run directly behind their runner at all times, no exceptions at all. Also crew and runners were required to use poop bags, urinating right by the side of the road was not allowed as runners were required to move a few meters off the road and go about their business in a very discreet manner. There were also numerous stretches, including a 15 mile stretch up the mountain from Panamint Spings to Father Crowley, where runners were not permitted to access their crew vehicles, so in practice the pacer would cross the road to then re-supply a runner, as runners themselves could not cross the road. There was also a strict ‘bible’ which detailed that crew vehicles could not pull over to the side of the road, as there were sections on the route where there weren’t any hard shoulders. As the vehicular traffic passing through Death Valley included numerous trucks and cars it was deemed unsafe for crew vehicles to stop except at designated stop off points specifically allocated by the Badwater race management.

Badwater (Death Valley National Park) 2015 Route starts from Badwater Basin -282 ft below sea level and finishes at Mt.Whitney Portal 8371 ft above sea level

All in all I was pretty paranoid about all these rules having never really run a race that demanded such attention to detail, especially from a runner’s perspective, but despite high levels of exhaustion, once we all got going things didn’t seem as bad in practice, which to me was a great relief. All I wanted to do was just get my head down and start ticking off the miles, as I knew that I could run 100 miles anyway, although there was the uncertainty of the heat and the small matter of the additional 35 miles with the last 13 ascending up a mountain to the eventual finish line at Mt.Whitney Portals.

The day of the race was sheer apprehension for me. I must confess that no matter how much I pep talked myself into calming down, if the truth be known I was literally a bag of nerves. I called Mel to share my sentiments as I needed to have some reassurance that this was something I could achieve. The reality and enormity of literally 6 months’ worth of preparation and hard training had narrowed down now to two days of running in the hottest, most inhospitable place on earth. My crew could sense my trepidation and left me to ruminate alone and psychologically prepare for the biggest, most important race of my life. It was down to me now to prove that I not only had the physical strength to complete this legendary race but also to have the spirit, tenacity and dogged determination to cross that finishing line some 135 miles (217 kms) later whilst dealing with 115 deg F heat and a total altitudinal ascent/descent of over 20,700 ft over huge mountains.  

My lucky charm the little “Roadrunner” 

The race starts were staggered at 3 consecutive intervals, namely the 8.30pm, 9.30pm and 11pm starts. Starting in the fastest group meant that I was lined up alongside a number of previous Badwater winners and some super-fast 100 mile ultrarunners. This was not only a great honour to line up and stand beside these ultra legends but also quite intimidating for me being a virgin Badwater runner.

The afternoon of race day seemed to drag, and despite trying to catch some sleep in he afternoon I was a just a bag of nerves. A good omen seemed to have had the desired calming effect though, and it was in the strangest form. I had given up on the sleep option and was sitting outside in the 110 deg F dry heat at Furnace Creek just going though last minute details and strategies with my crew, when a Roadrunner bird appeared on the lawn outside our room.These birds seem just like the cartoon characters that have made them famous and they are the most curious of creatures. They have got long legs and tails and they just run everywhere. When you’re up quite close they trot off on their little spindly legs, I was totally entranced and couldn’t stop taking pictures, I concluded that the “roadrunner” was my lucky charm ! 

The crew religiously packed the vehicle with enough food and ice to supply an army that afternoon, whilst I rested on my bed as best as I could. The whole car park was awash with the flurry of crews and runners going back and forth with various provisions like armies of soldier ants. It was as if everyone was preparing for armageddon.Finally the time had come, and by unanimous decision we all jumped in the van at 9.15pm to drive to Badwater basin, as it was about 17 miles away. I really wanted to get there early in case there was congestion on the road, as the previous runner waves followed by their crew support vans had already started the race. Driving down to the start was pretty surreal in the darkness of the stifling Death Valley night, as there was a snake of runners with their headlamps blazing running towards us with their respective crew vehicles leapfrogging ahead of them, usually in 2 mile intervals. Each crew van had different lights on in their rear windows to enable their runner to easily identify their crew from a distance. Some crews really seemed to have gone overboard, with their rear lights resembling illuminated Xmas trees. It was a fascinating spectacle and runners were chugging along the road with steely resolve, wearing their mandatory high viz florescent jackets and flashing lights on the front/back of their race apparel.

The unity of human spirit was etched on the runners’ faces as they embarked on their journeys of discovery  with the hope and fervent desire to reach the 135 mile goal which was Mt.Whitney. Each runner would have a very different journey but each would involve overcoming many personal adversities en-route, and some runners wouldn’t make it. “The human spirit knows no bounds,” I quietly thought to myself as I watched myriad runners of varying abilities moving in unison with that goal in the forefront of their minds and spirits. By now I could not wait to join them and begin my adventure of a lifetime. 

This was by far the singular most momentous challenge of my life, and I was shortly to be tested in ways that I knew nothing about… the seemingly intangible dream had now become reality and it was crystallising before my eyes in the most stark yet inspiring form imaginable.We parked the van, and before getting out the entire crew had to ensure that they were fully kitted out with luminous race vests. Runners also had to wear theirs and we all had to ensure that our flashing lights were attached to the front/rear at all times during the night sections, to comply with the strict rules. As I made my way to the start I noticed that the other runners were mostly lean mean fighting machines and looked like gladiators ready for battle. Their faces bore the hallmarks of many miles that had been notched along the way, just to get to this legendary place on earth. To have been pre-selected by Chris Kostman was really humbling for me, and to be surrounded by arguably some of the best ultra runners on the planet was awe-inspiring. I still wondered deep down if I really had what this would take to get me across the finishing line.

Badwater ..”brothers in arms” Dave & Grant 

I greeted Chris again and shook his hand, then headed off to the start was right behind the Badwater basin sign. All the hardened runners had already started to congregate and chatter excitedly to one another with hand shakes and hard slaps on the back being meted out. Needless to say, there were quite a few runners that had already made this epic journey and were acknowledging fellow comrades again. Wow, what a stacked field it was. I had struck up a conversation with the Pam Reed and she seemed worried about the 48 hr cut off, which I was bemused with, as she was one of the fastest in the field. Valmir Nunes and ‘Polish Rocky,’ in very tight lycra shorts, were standing next to me too. Both had features that looked as though they had been chiselled out of the granite cliffs surrounding us, and there was a steely determination in their eyes. I shook hands with my friend Grant Maughan from Australia (2nd in 2013, 2014) I first met Grant when I was doing the Jackson Hole marathon the weekend before Wasatch 100 in 2014. This marathon was where Grant had been helping Lisa Smith-Batchen and her husband Jay at the race finish and I hadn’t even known who he was then.

The world press were there en-masse, and cameramen were snapping pictures in earnest from all angles as we huddled together in a mob on either side of the famed Badwater sign. Chris ran through a final few words of instruction in a last minute pre-race brief as we all listened intently, the runners now looking very serious but self-assured as we shuffled around getting ready for the start. With hearts that were pounding like African drums, this was the  moment we’d all been waiting for. The countdown began, and finally we charged off in a stampede and then slowed 50 yards later to climb the steps that led out onto that Death Valley road.There was a full moon illuminating the clear night sky and a million stars above us that twinkled in the stillness of the night, but it felt as though we were shrouded in a cloak with the oppressively stifling heat, as it was still about 95 deg F, and you could actually taste the salt on your dry lips in the Badwater basin, even when you were just walking around there. 

Davy’s on the road again..!

All that pent up adrenaline came surging out of me in a wave as I sped off at a ridiculous 7min mile pace and found myself right at the sharp end of the pack, although it wasn’t long before I reasoned with myself as this was madness, and I slowed down to a more respectable 7.45 min pace, which actually felt pretty easy despite the oppressive heat. The glow of head torches soon spread out and could be seen snaking along the valley road whilst crew vans jostled for position ahead as they waited patiently for their runners. My crew van had 3 red lights in the rear which could be easily identified from a distance. The idea was that my crew would stand on the LHS of the road and as I approached I’d be handed a drink / gel or some food so I wouldn’t have to stop, then they would hop back into the van and speed off down the road for another couple of miles. Initially I asked them to leapfrog about 5 miles ahead, which they did, and this worked pretty well for the first 20 miles or so. I’d let them know at each rendezvous point what I wanted to eat / drink at the next pick-up point so they could prepare it for me well in advance. It was like a mobile check point. My diet initially included small portions of grapes in zip lock bags, cantaloupe melon and peanut butter and jelly wraps. I was well fuelled up and running really well. Running past Furnace Creek starkly reminded me of the numerous training runs I’d done in preparation. I’d actually be running the first 42 miles at night though unlike the early morning starts that previous Badwater runners had been subjected to. This was due to the National Parks Service (NPS) having regulated the 2015 event by suggesting that Chris start his race at night which was the coolest time the downside was that most runners probably hadn’t been able to sleep on race day.

Death Valley’s lunar landscape

I was enjoying myself in the early stages of the race, chipping away at the miles, and hadn’t been overtaken by many runners at all. At about the 30 mile mark ‘Polish Rocky’, and his really tight lycra shorts, sped past. He must have been on a mission, flying past me down a long hill and disappearing from sight. I figured he must have been doing about 7.15 min per mile. Anyway, I certainly wasn’t even going to attempt to keep up with him and on I went at my more conservative pace. Later on during the race at about the 70 mile mark (daylight at this point) I passed him. He was doing stretches by the side of the road looking pretty spent and he didn’t finish the race.

Stovepipe Wells at 42.2 miles was a landmark that I really enjoyed running through as the sun was just coming up by now and to me it always seems like rebirth when the sun comes up and you’ve been running right throughout the night. The rocky mountains had been silhouetted against the night sky, towering above me in an almost sinister way.As the orange glow of the early morning sun came up in the desert it filled me with hope but I also wondered how oppressive the heat would really be that day, and more importantly how I was going to deal with it, especially as I had to survive a full day after having run for 7 solid hours throughout the night.

It was mystical though to see the awakening of another day in the Death Valley National Park; the starkness of the surrounding scrubland rudely indicated that vegetation and rain was very sparse here in this barren Mojave desert. What amazed me most was how local people managed to live in such a barren and desolate place that was so hot in the summer and cold in the winter months. There just wasn’t much around here at all. I guess the isolation in places like these was what this breed of people liked. We ran though the small community of Stovepipe Wells, which merely consisted of a small general store, gas station, restaurant and motel. Then, leaving this remote outpost behind we began the first of the big climbs which started up Townes Pass. This was a 17 mile and 5000ft climb up a mountain with numerous switchbacks, then when you finally reach the top after endless hours there is a 10 mile descent with 3000 ft worth of elevation loss. I can’t recall ever having climbed up a mountain this long, and it took me numerous hours of mainly power hiking and pretty slow jogging to get to the top of this pass.The heat then really started to kick in at about 10 am (I’d been running for 11 hrs solid by now.) Temps shot up to between (105-110 deg F) as I neared the top of the first really challenging climb. By this stage I had started to understand how warm the headwinds could be that funnelled down though this mountain pass and hit you full on in the face.As write ups suggested it felt as though someone had turned a hairdryer on to the max setting directed towards your face, my challenge was approaching 5th gear.

Death Valley National Park – ominous signage   

I had started the race kitted out in a white Salomon tank top for the night section and this had been fine all night long when temps where in the low 90s but now I had to don my white arm coolers that I’d brought specifically for this point in the race, as my arms were starting to get really burnt. I donned my legionnaires cap with flap down the back of my neck to prevent it getting burnt too, but then I soon realised that my exposed shoulders would get burnt if I carried on running in this attire, so off came the arm coolers and tank top too. These were replaced with the white long sleeved lightweight technical top that I’d also brought along, which at least covered my arms and shoulders. It was an entirely UV protected technical garment, so I was now fully covered up. I stopped towards the top of Townes Pass to apply a generous amount of high SPF sun protection cream to my face, neck and legs that weren’t covered up. I’d also bought white yoga pants but I couldn’t see myself wearing these and trying to run efficiently as they were far too long anyway, so I had to hope that the sun cream was the answer. Food by now in the heat of the day continued to comprise mostly of fruit, though on occasion I did have the odd PB & J wrap or a cheese and ham wrap, but I did honestly did find that eating solids meant me force feeding myself, as my appetite was suppressed due to excessive heat and the effects of the altitude which were by now taking their exacting toll. 

Finally I reached the top of Townes Pass with lots of ice which I had placed under my long sleeved top on my wrist arteries and within an improvised ice necklace which actually worked really well. As I was also wearing my Ultimate Direction Anton Kurpricka pack, made of non-absorbent material called cuben fibre (used in the making of racing sails) I realised that putting ice cubes right down the back section where the bladder of the pack would normally have been kept my back ice cold, and as the sun beat down unrelentingly it melted the ice, which then dripped right down my back, which made me feel so much cooler. This worked exceptionally well except that it actually made the base of my spine feel numb, but I wasn’t overheating and the numbness was lesser of two evils.

Getting down the back of Townes Pass was great, as it actually meant I could run again, so I set off now with Ashley and Frank pacing me at alternate intervals. We discussed numerous subjects as we ran down the mountain pass together. Townes is a 10 mile decent into Panamint Springs Resort, which is at the 72.7 mile mark, and we made great progress on this section. I felt really strong all the way down the winding switchbacks on the pass. I enjoyed this section, and despite the oppressive heat I was running comfortably and being mindful to stop every few miles, as was the tried and tested trend, to ensure I took on electrolytes or salt pills (Succeed Capsules) and food in some shape or form. Cinder had also wisely brought some mixed fruit pots in a syrup, which I loved. These soon became my favourite food, and I drank the contents and munched at the fruit. It was all very well that I was getting the much needed calories in, but it did mean a number of pit stops to the loo, which was quite embarrassing seeing as we had to use the poop bags before handing them back to the crew to be disposed of later. This became quite a source of amusement with the crew, but they also had to adhere to these rules so we got used to it and got our squatting from behind the crew van down to a fine art. 

The run down to Panamint was extremely scenic, and you could see the road cut a snaking swathe through this inhospitable desert as it stretched out for miles into the shimmering horizon. My Hoka Clifton shoes were completely soaked through as I had been stopping to get ice cold water thrown over my head to keep me even cooler, but in so doing they were also getting a soaking, so I had to change them on a few occasions rather than risk getting huge blisters. We then resorted to putting the wet shoes on the dashboard and within about 30 mins they were bone dry, so this worked pretty well.My Oakley Radarlock sunglasses helped to keep the sun out of my eyes, as it was dazzlingly bright during the day and glasses were a necessity for the hours of running whilst staring at the sun.

The next big climb started when I left the Panamint Valley and headed up another very long, steep mountain to Panamint Pass, which was at 84.9 miles. There wasn’t much vehicular or crew access permitted on this section apart from 6 designated parking zones as the route winds up to the Father Crowley Turnout (car park), which is at 80.65 miles. I recall that for me this was one of the hardest sections of the course as I hit this section during the full heat of the day, which by now had cranked up to a blistering 114 deg F. It was really roasting, and the dry winds that funnelled head on into my face made it seem all the more intolerable. I kept focused and positive though, despite taking about 3 hours to make it to the top of Father Crowley.

Father Crowley  my “oasis” in the baking Death Valley 115  deg F heat ! 

Fortunately for me the crew, especially Cinder, knew full well that this was a very unforgiving section of the course and prior to this climb they had planned a surprise for me. They had on my request actually brought along a paddling pool, which they filled with water and ice cubes. This was set up within a few miles of the steepest section of the climb, and when I got there literally baking they summoned me over to the ice pool. I took off my shoes and dunked myself in clothes and all, and spent quite some time getting jugs of iced water poured down my back and on my head to bring down my core body temperature and get ready for the big climb, which I was dreading. I sat down in a camping chair and Gary handed me a large chicken burger, french fries and an ice cold coke. This was bliss, and before long I’d virtually munched through the whole burger, as I realised that no matter what that I needed to get as many calories into my body as possible to keep me fueled both physically and mentally. A drop off in blood sugar levels can be the demise of many a runner, so I wasn’t in any hurry to continue my epic journey until I could force down even more calories. 

Dow Villa (Race HQ) 122.7 miles 

This point on the course is the gateway to a massive trek up Mt.Whitney  and it’s on the actual Badwater route, so after discussion with the crew at the CP and verification from them, they established that it was totally within the rules for runners and crew to bed down at Dow Villa. Cinder and Frank came back to the petrol station where I was slumped on the grass verge feeling really rough, and broke this news to me. As I am a stickler for the rules I seem to remember asking them a few times as to whether this was definitely allowed. They confirmed that it was, so I got up and trudged to the hotel and checked into my room that I was sharing with Gary. I quickly undressed, showered and then got straight into bed, falling asleep instantly. The plan was that I would sleep for about 2.5 hours and then the crew would wake me up and I’d get back on the road again and head up Mt.Whitney for the final 13 mile push to the finish.

The plan worked like clockwork. I awoke feeling great and rejuvenated and ready for a job that had to be finished. My new found energy knew no bounds and I got dressed into my running kit, then wolfed down a McD’s sausage and egg McMuffin and some hot coffee that the crew had bought for me. Off we went. In total I’d lost about 3.5 hrs, in hindsight I think this was the right decision, as I really would have struggled to keep moving at any pace the way I had felt before the food and the ‘power nap’ which was a great call by my crew and really gave be renewed vigour. Frank paced me out of Lone Pine and to the foot of Mt. Whitney where we were to begin the long ascent of the highest mountain in North America. Mt. Whitney Portal road signals the beginning of the last big challenge that Badwater throws at you, and this is a massive 13 mile climb up the mountain, with a total elevation gain of 5000 ft. After the turning from highway 395 it was 8.4 miles to the next time station at the start of the steep switchbacks leading up to the mountain top. Temperatures steadily decreased during this ascent, despite the fact that it was around 10am now, and the going got markedly tougher as the air was much thinner. The pacing alternated at this point between Frank and Ashley, and even Greg did a couple of miles with me, although I was so energised by now that I’d even taken to running up the Portal road section with Greg in tow as he was struggling to keep up with me and get his breath back as the altitude increased. 

Mt. Whitney’s Portal Road “the final 13 mile push” to the finish at 8371 ft

It was, however, another very long and tough slog, and I was relieved that I had taken the advice of my crew and power-napped before attempting this last beast of a climb. I caught up with Glenn Sutton from Dunedin in NZ. We had been switching positions throughout Panamint Valley when he was running well, but now with his leg bandaged he looked as though he was struggling. We chatted briefly as we made relentless forward progress up that unrelenting mountain, and onwards and upwards we went. I was determined to go as fast as I could though and get the job done, and so I soon left Glenn behind as I power-hiked as fast as I could and jogged the final few miles, ensuring that I maintained my hydration and watched my nutritional intake, which for this last 3.5 hr push was definitely needed as the altitude really sapped my energy, as did the sheer effort of this gargantuan climb. I got overtaken towards the top by a couple more people, including the Swiss lady runner Ricarda Bethka, who had also stayed at Dow Villa, and Thomas Podell from California, but by this stage of the race just getting to the finish was the main objective. I wasn’t going to outsprint someone to the finish, so I pressed on with a steely resolve. Ashley was pacing this last stretch with me and was keeping me focussed. Every switchback was nearer to the revered finishing line and every step was taking us closer to what was arguably my greatest ever achievement as a runner. I kept focused and forced myself onwards.I was by now so excited after the build up of over 36 hours of running, and the fulfilment of a dream was fast becoming reality.

I remember rounding the final switchback on this very steep Portal road and hearing the clapping from around the corner just getting louder and louder. The finish is at 8371 ft., which is at the very scenic Mt. Whitney trailhead, which is right beside a campsite that is a well-stocked fishing ground along a pine tree lined avenue. This moment was like a rebirth and spiritual awakening rolled into one, as I’d been thinking, eating, sleeping and breathing about this for what seemed like eternity now. As I approached those final few hundred yards the clapping and sounding of horns reached a crescendo and my whole crew came running up the road to in unison to greet me. All the pain and suffering completely melted away and the moment became transfixed in my mind as one of the happiest of my life, as we all joined hands and sprinted towards the “BADWATER 135 FINISH”, crossing the finish line that marked the end of this incredible adventure.

Reaching the milestone that changed my life ..”pain is temporary pride lasts forever” !

I was greeted and congratulated by Chris Kostman, and having succeeded on my first Badwater race, arguably the toughest footrace on earth, was such an amazing feeling. There were a total of 97 starters at this year’s Badwater and just 79 finishers, or 81% of the field, which was the lowest finisher rate percentage in 9 years. To have been a part of this special race was nothing short of spectacular, and it lived up to everything that I have ever read about it. The highs and the lows of races such as these serve to remind one that no matter what trials and tribulations we have at races, as in life, if we just never stop believing we can achieve the most amazing feats.I am forever changed by this race totally grateful to my wife, my crew and everyone that made my journey of self discovery so momentous and such an enriching experience. 

My final finishing time was 36hrs 18mins 40secs, which put in 28th place overall, I was the first and only British finisher in the race  so this was a moment that I will always cherish. The presentation of the legendary Badwater belt buckle took place straight after the finish, and this was a moment of sheer elation, as you are called to the podium with your crew and presented with your buckle by Chris Kostman whilst the national press take pictures and the results are updated in real time.To be a part of the history of this epic event was both a moving and a life changing experience and meeting runners from all over the world that had triumphed against all the odds was a treasured memory for me.

Badwater Presentation Chris (Race Director) & Dave

Badwater has progressed to it’s legendary status from the inaugural race on 31st July 1987. This was on the original 146 mile course which then finished right at the top of Mt. Whitney when it was solely a team challenge between the UK and USA, there were a mere 5 starters and 5 finishers.

Badwater 2015 Finishers Buckle

Badwater Facts / Course Profile.                                                      

Flat miles: Badwater to Stovepipe Wells 41 miles, Panamint floor 2 miles, Darwin flats 4 miles, Owens Valley to Lone Pine 22 miles. Total 69 miles.                                                                     

Uphill miles: Stovepipe Wells to Townes 18 miles + 5,000 ft. Panamint grade (west) 15 miles + 3,400 ft. Lone Pine to Whitney Portal 13 miles + 4,600 ft. Total 46 miles +13,000 ft.                         

Downhill miles: Townes to Panamint Valley 8 miles + 3,400 ft. Darwin to Owens Valley 12 miles + 1,300 ft. Total 20 miles + 4,700 ft.